Before you go: Leave all of your tourist guides at home and buy City Walks: Paris: 50 Adventures on Foot instead. (http://www.amazon.com/City-Walks-Paris-Adventures-Foot/dp/0811838439) These cards were without a doubt my favorite way to see the city. Each card describes a short, 20-30 minute walk around Paris and includes restaurants, museums and more to stop by during your walk. It's a great thing to buy for any city you travel to. (They even have a set for New York City.) Pull out the Avenue Montaigne card first, only because I'm a little shaky on directions through the area, but it's a definite must-do. Avenue Montaigne boasts every major designer store in the world, is home to Plaza Athénée (where Carrie Bradshaw stayed in “Sex and the City”) and, during the walk, it will take you to the Presidential Palace (where Nicolas Sarkozy, the president of France, and Carla Bruni live). It's a very classy walk! The flagship Longchamp store is also along this walk on St. Honoré, another famous shopping street. When packing, a quick piece of advice is to pack neutrals. (This is my secret to packing for any trip, leaving color to the accessories that take up little space in my suitcase.) Parisians wear black no matter what time of the year, and if it’s cold or rainy, everyone is in a trench coat. Try to find a sophisticated pair of flats because it is very much a walking city, but throw a great pair of heels in your suitcase as well if you want to blend in with the French women!
My Secret Treasure: My favorite area in all of Paris is Montmartre. Take the green 12 line, get off at Abysses, and you’ll be in the heart of the area. Go on a Sunday and there are usually markets with tons of free food and wine to taste. This is one of the best shopping areas in Paris because there are dozens small boutiques (some are even vintage) instead of typical stores like Zara and H&M. They're also affordable! I can’t remember the names of either, but there is a great paper store on the main street in Montmartre, followed by a cute café that is painted red and purple. I recommend both! Walk up, up, up and you’ll be in the artist’s square where all sorts of painters gather and paint all day. It's surrounded by tons of little cafés to grab lunch, and it's a great place to shop for souvenirs. At the top of Montmartre (just keep going up) is the Sacré-Coeur. On Sundays (and most other days) there is a man who sings and plays guitar on the stairs, and there are always hundreds of people from all over the world who sit and sing along. Sit and watch the beautiful view of the city during sunset.
Paris by Foot: I have a few favorite walks to get around the city. The first begins at Notre Dame. There is a really famous ice cream parlor, Berthillon, located right behind the Notre Dame on the left. (If you start by facing the Notre Dame, just walk down the left-hand side and go across the bridge also on your left.) It has a green awning, and, since it's summer, you'll probably be able to point it out based on the long line. But the ice cream is totally worth it. A piece of advice—don’t try to sit down and order ice cream to avoid the line. Unfortunately they won't let you and are complete jerks about it if you try. After you see the Notre Dame (try to start this walk about a half hour before the sun begins to fall so you’re walking during sunset), walk straight ahead the entire way down the Seine. It's such a gorgeous walk, and your final destination will be the Musée D'Orsay straight ahead and the bridge leading to the Louvre on your right. Take a right and walk toward the Louvre as it gets dark. It's so pretty to watch the whole area light up at night. You can get a drink at the outdoor café in front of the Pyramid, or, if you go on a Friday, go inside the Louvre because it's free from 6 to 9 p.m.
(Paris Fashion Week took place in the Tuileries gardens last spring. This is from Barbara Bui, a major French designer.)
Another great day walk from the Louvre is to the Tuileries and Champs Elysées. Go to Angelina (226 Rue de Rivoli; metro is the yellow 1 line and Louvre-Rivoli is the stop) for hot chocolate first. It’s the best thing you'll ever taste, and Audrey Hepburn used to go there often. Walk forward from the Louvre and walk straight through the Tuileries. This is where Paris Fashion Week is held! Keep walking straight and go through Concorde. Keep your eye out for photo shoots by the fountains to your right and left. Keep walking straight and walk down the Champs Elysées. Hop in the flagship Louis Vuitton store and Ladurée for macaroons. My personal favorite (even if you're not a plain eater) is vanilla. The view from the top of the Arc de Triomphe is my favorite day view because 12 major avenues in Paris jet out from the Arc. I'm sure it's also amazing at night, but I prefer that view from the Eiffel Tower.
(Photo shoots often take place in Concorde, which has a beautiful view of the Champs Elysées.)
(The view from the top of the Arc de Triomphe has a pretty good view of the Champs Elysées too...)
Of course the Eiffel Tower (metro stop is the green 12 line at Bir-Hakeim) is a must-see, but there's not a good way to go without just swallowing your pride and being a typical tourist. Not to be cliché, but it is one of my favorite monuments because every time I saw it, it always reminded me of where I was. My advice is that if it's a nice day and you're debating whether or not to go, just go. Odds are that the next day will be cloudy and you’ll have missed out on the great view. (It’s about 10 euro to go to the top.) Definitely do this at night if you go to Sacré-Coeur or the top of the Arc de Triomphe during the day. There is a champagne cruise across from the Eiffel Tower called Point de Vedettes that I highly recommend. I think it's around 40 euro. You can buy tickets online by going to http://www.o-chateau.com/paris-champagne-cruise.php.
If you have a Sunday free (but you can go any day of the week), the Marais District is one of the only areas in Paris where stores are open on Sundays. It's a really fun area to walk through, and, since this is where all of the modeling agencies are, French models are everywhere. It's trés chic! Just take the yellow 1 line and get off at St. Paul. There are beautiful pastry shops here, so make sure you go with an empty tummy.
(The interior of Buddha Bar, where my friends and I had our "last supper".)
Restaurants: A word of advice is to avoid eating at restaurants right along touristy spots. (For example, the large cafes across from Trocadero or the restaurant right behind the Musée D’Orsay.) You'd think they're friendlier and accustomed to tourists, but they're not. They're also very expensive. Walk a few blocks around the corner and you'll find more average priced, friendly service. My favorite restaurants are Bofinger (http://www.bofingerparis.com/), Buddha Bar (http://www.google.com/#hl=en&q=buddha+bar+paris+&aq=f&oq=&aqi=g10&fp=sEPs8bayk4Q) and La Gare (http://www.restaurantlagare.com/). Each of these are a little expensive, but I didn't go out to eat that often so restaurants were always a splurge! Step out from Buddha Bar into Concorde right before the clock strikes the hour. Every hour, on the hour, the Eiffel Tower sparkles for 5 minutes, and it’s a beautiful view from Concorde. (This is how I said goodbye to Paris!) Try lots and lots of bakeries, patisseries and cafés. It's hard to find bad food.
(My friends and I out in Bastille. Can you tell who is French and who is American?)
Nightlife: My favorite club is Duplex. Any night from Thursday on they offer some kind of "special" where girls get in for free. If you get off the metro going toward La Défense on the yellow 1 line at George V, you'll come out right on the beautiful Champs Elysées. Walk forward down to the Arc de Triomphe and turn left when you get to the round-about. Walk about two blocks in a circle (It’s a little difficult to describe...you’ll understand when you’re there) and turn left again when you see a purple/pink glowing building on your left. It's really easy to find. It's a 4-story club and each room is a different theme. It's usually always happy hour, which means you get two drinks for the price of one. (I think it’s still around 10 euro.) Showcase is another fun club, which is under the Point Alexander bridge. I can't remember exactly how to walk there, but take the light blue13 line and get off at Invalides. You'll see a big bridge with gold statues right away. That's the Point Alexander bridge. Just walk all the way down, turn right and walk to go under it. You'll see it! The Bastille has TONS of bars. That's an entire metro stop on the yellow 1 line. Just get off and explore. My favorite bars are Frog and Princess, Hideout, and the Latin Corner. That's also a fun bar to go to during the day for a drink. But there are literally bars lining the streets. Although plenty of Americans frequent each of these bars, don’t be afraid to talk to French people! Even if you don’t know a word of French, they typically know English and love talking to Americans. I can’t tell you how many offers my friends and I have gotten from French people who want to cook us a “real French meal” after a night out!
Final Thoughts: Don't be afraid to take the metro. They have metro maps at the info desk and the stations are marked so well. It does not take long to figure out and it's better than risking a taxi driver who might drive around town just to take you around the corner. You'll definitely encounter rude French people, but just talk quietly in public places and be very polite when you're asking questions. It's usually easier just to ask questions in English. Most of the time, unless you have a polished French accent, they revert to English as soon as they hear the tell-tale American “r” in your voice. Our accent is really, really noticeable!
(The Paris Ballet at the end of a performance.)
(The inside of the breathtaking Opéra Garnier.)
Other must-dos: The Luxembourg Gardens (take the RER B line) are beautiful in the spring. This is a perfect place for a picnic. Go into a bakery and buy some fruit, wine, cheese and a baguette and you’ll look just like a Frenchie! The Musée D’Orsay (take the RER C line) is my favorite museum. It’s heaven for anyone who loves impressionism. The Louvre is beautiful from the outside, but it's kind of overwhelming. Another beautiful museum is the Musée de l’Orangerie (take the yellow 1 line and get off at Concorde). This houses many works by Monet and is very doable in one afternoon! If you like the ballet, you must visit the Paris Opéra Garnier. Visit their Web site (http://www.operadeparis.fr/cns11/live/onp/site/) to find show times, and if you are willing to walk in the side entrance and wait in line for about an hour before the show begins, you can buy a ticket for only 6 euro. The Ritz is just around the corner, which is where Princess Diana left from right before she died.
Additional restaurant suggestions from friends:
· Procopio Angelo, 89 rue Saint Honore. Italian restaurant, seats 20, closed Sunday and Monday. Reservations a must for dinner. Very casual and inexpensive for Paris.
· Swann et Vincent, 22 place Denfert-Rochereau. Italian restaurant, casual and reasonably priced.
· Philippe and Jean-Pierre, 7 rue du Boccador. For excellent traditional French cuisine, order their Foie Gras two ways (one traditional cold pate w/jam and the other served warm in a delicate pastry shell). Upscale dining, business casual to formal. Located between Champs Elysees and Georges V.
· Chez Janou Bistrot, 2 rue Roger Verlomme near the Bastille. New, trendy French cuisine, casual and fun place. Reservations for dinner a must.
· RATN, 9 rue de la Tremoille, excellent Indian cuisine and around the corner from a very popular steak and French fry restaurant that has patrons lined up for an hour at a time for dinner. Located between Champs Elysees and Georges V.
I hope you enjoy this guide! If you discover any new favorites during your stay in Paris, please e-mail me at devin.tomb@gmail.com so I can add them to my list!
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